(Of course I hate sanding, so maybe that’s why!) I guess I’m saying, don’t stress about the choice you can get yourself more than one stick – maybe one laminated and one one-piece! It wouldn’t hurt to start with a one-piece and go from there. There’s just enough friction so that you have a good grip even with a pretty relaxed hand. Some of the most popular woods used for canoe paddles include cedar, basswood, and maple. The best woods for canoe paddles are those that are lightweight, yet strong and durable. Another great thing about one-piece GPs is that they’re not slick in your hand. There are many different types of wood that can be used for canoe paddles, but some are better than others. One of the two I made is not oiled – I just never got to it, and it’s fine without. This is not an example of easy or strong wood to work with. I have 4 GPs, all one-piece western red cedar and all good sticks: a Beale (my first), a Lumpy (that I was lucky enough to win as a door prize), and 2 that I made myself in classes with Brian Schulz. This wooden paddle was made from a branch that fell from a large Cedar tree. Also, you can modify them yourself with a saw, a block plane, and a piece of sandpaper. Here’s the thing: if you think about a GP not as a $400 high-tech pinnacle of paddling greatness but as an under-$200 hard-working stick of wood, you can use your paddle(s) hard and afford more than one. For example, a composite paddle may cost more than a wood paddle, but it will be lighter and easier to handle. Ultimately, the price of the paddle will depend on what features you want. I do carry a backup non take-apart as a spare, just in case.īuying a GP needn’t be like agonizing over the most expensive bent-shaft Euro paddle. You can get high-end paddles for about 100, or you can buy a decent-quality paddle for around 70-90. I took a chance and made myself a take-apart GP out of western red cedar and it has held up fine so far with many miles of kayaking off the coast of Maine. Some people will tell you that you must have a laminated paddle if you want a take-apart GP. Even with the dings and gouges my tung-oiled cedar paddle works fine. A laminated paddle can be stronger than a cedar paddle.Ī cedar paddle is often lighter than a laminated paddle and the wood is softer so you will inevitably get some dings and gouges in it. Not that there is anything wrong with a beautiful laminated paddle, but, some people like me, do not like the feel of a varnished paddle because it is more slippery. The lightest all wood canoe paddle available for unmatched bent shaft efficiency and blade tip protection. We don’t love the Boardworks Surf Triton just because it is gorgeous. I was told that the different types of wood will expand and contract at different rates when exposed to moisture which could warp or break your paddle (also stresses the glue joint because the glue does not expand or contract with the wood). I am not sure that oil alone would be a sufficient water-proofing method. A laminated paddle should be varnished to keep the wood dry.
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